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Tuesday 15 September 2009

Leaving Al Ain

So we're moving....again. This time to the northern Emirate of Ras al Khaimah where we will inhabit a townhouse half the size of our villa for precisely half the rent. Since we arrived in the UAE we've been on a mission to cheat the outrageous rental costs here and in this latest move, we seem to have done that, albeit with the massive cost of DH commuting a couple of days a week to AD.

Moving isn't a new phenomenon to us, we've moved so many times I've lost count. I have a suspicion there is some itinerant blood running through my veins as after a year in any house ennui sets in and I find myself dreaming of a different house, different town, new curtains and just plain wanting to start 'afresh'. In addition, it's an effective, albeit drastic way to spring clean and throw out all the crap, (as students we used to hold a dinner party every now and then for the same reason).

This probably stems from a childhood which saw at least 8 moves (for me, for my siblings you can double that) and many schools. 'Always the new girl' is a frame of mind which comes naturally to me and I relish sussing out who you should know and where you should go (and in this country, where the off licenses are).

But I shall miss Al Ain, moving here seemed mad at the time but it worked out very well and we’ve been content. Al Ain is optimistically called 'the garden city' due to it's comparative verdancy but there is more to it than that. Below I have modestly compiled my opinion on some of what Al Ain has to offer...

Jebel Haffeet – Is the closest thing we have to a landmark here in Al Ain. Famous throughout the emirates, this mountain is visited by thousands of tourists each year. A drive to the summit is a weaving and treacherous ascent along an amazing feat of engineering, and is surely worthy of a supercar race between Jeremy Clarkson and Richard Hammond. However, once you get to the top, chances are you won't be able to see anything if it’s too sunny, too sandy or too misty but on good days you can see Green Mubazzarah down below on the UAE side, and Oman on the other. However, the splendour is rather tainted by the derelict looking coffee shop at the top. And a gift shop wouldn't go astray either, what's the point of seeing a famous landmark/painting/exhibit if you can't buy the mug afterwards??


[L to R -Me, DD and neice (who is now going to kill me for posting this pic) at the top of Jebel Haffeet]




Trader Vics- I’m on the fence with this one so I’ll start with the negatives. More expensive than most hotel restaurants in Abu Dhabi, this is a smart restaurant with an exotic feel. However, much to my chagrin, the last time we ate there I casually asked the waiter for a bottle of house white as he handed me the menu. When he handed me the bill an hour later that bottle of wine was 180 dirhams!! A bottle of house wine should be good value and good quality and any decent restaurant should pride itself on such. With a rare burst of assertiveness I asked to speak to the manager who patiently explained to me that they pride themselves on only the best of wines and indeed never serve cooking wine at the table. One of those UAE moments where you have to 'let it go'.

However, we like to sit up at the bar and annoy the lovely Sri Lankan barman while working our way through the cocktail menu and the Colombian band add a cheery addition to the evening. Shame that the house wine leaves a bad taste in the mouth.

Pacos -is described as an ex-pat bar and as such delivers in spades. If what you want is sweaty, red –faced men over 50, slobbering all over prostitutes of indeterminate gender then this is your one! Personally I don’t like it and the last time I was there the band were truly appalling and reminded me of the band on the alter singing ‘I can’t smile without you’ in 'Four weddings and a funeral'. Yuk!

Intercontinental hotel- For the best pizza in town go here. We usually order it beside the pool, it is a proper Italian pizza and not plastic like pizza hut. Highly recommended!

Coldstone creamery- Truly the most annoying place known to man! The ice cream is impressive (albeit confusing, why would I want a twix in my icecream??) but the staff, who clearly despise each other, insist on regularly breaking into renditions of 'don't worry, be happy' while drumming with spoons and other implements and generally being annoyingly festive. Over a smoothie the other day DH and myself could barely hear each other over the din. This hysteria only works in America where there is a minimum wage and freedom of labour, here it just makes the western customer feel uncomfortable at best and downright irritated at worst. In addition, in America the customer is always right, whereas here the customer is always wrong and the staff can't understand you anyhow and please just go over to that other counter and fill out a form.....

African & Eastern- on the outskirts of the post-armageddon district of Sanaiya is this well known secret (which was a late discovery for me). Selling the finest selection of wine and spirits available in Al Ain, this is a must visit for those who like to imbibe. Surrounded by dismembered cars, dust and shanty houses, the off license can be difficult to locate, indeed I’ve spent upwards of 15 minutes driving around at times trying to locate it, but when you do, it is a welcoming, shining beauteous beacon in an otherwise harsh and unyielding landscape where the staff are helpful and enthusiastic (they will carry your wine out to the car for you!).

Bukkhara- Situated on the town square, this Indian restaurant is arguably the best in town, certainly dirham for dirham it is. If it’s not too hot you can sit outside and the kids can run or rollerskate around the square. The food is abundant and sublime. For 6 of us we can get away with the price of a visit to Mac Donalds.


Jahli Fort- A wonderful venue for a concert. We attended the Womad concert there some months back and it was a fantastic night. Dramatically lit up it was an atmospheric and joyous occasion only tainted by the lack of a bar...

Jahili Fort - host to Womad concert
So there endeth my appraisal of Al Ain. There is much more I could have mentioned but I just wanted to highlight those things which either pleased or irritated me. Farewell Garden City, we are off to the seaside!

3 comments:

  1. Made me smile .. nice summary. Good luck wiht the move.

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  2. ..."with" even - don't you just hate it when that happens

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  3. Yet another fabulous blog entry Claire. I have to say, though, that the golf club pizza's are, for me, the BEST in town. I will make an effort to try the other places I've not yet been to. Good luck in RAK. You will be missed!

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